Reviews

By: Eleanor Niblock, Southwark News

"I always thought the archetypal image of the Italian gangster was a myth until I met restaurant owner Giuseppe at his Italian restaurant on Borough High Street", writes Eleanor Niblock.

Not that I am in any way suggesting that Giuseppe partakes in dodgy dealings, but that he reminded me so much of a cinematic gangster it was uncanny.

However, the similarities didn't just stop at his looks of voice – as it is in such films as Martin Scorsese’s 'Goodfellas' where food plays an intrinsic part of the gangsters’ lives – so does it for Giuseppe and this passion has obviously affected every aspect of the restaurant.

Using only the freshest ingredients from literally across the road at Borough Market, themenu is inspired by dishes from every region of Italy whilst remaining harmoniously in tune with the seasons. Giuseppe’s head chef was trained at one of Antonio Carulucci’s restaurants in Covent Garden. Carlucci’ passion for exotic mushrooms has obviously rubbed off as there are plents of dishes making use of their wonderful flavours.

Before we have even had a chance to persue the menu, Giuseppe has joined us at the table to welcome us and opens a bottle of Lorenz Monte Pulciano D’Abruzzo from 2002. Apparently the vines used for this deliciously smooth, creamy and full bodied red come from Giuseppe’s home town and makes me really feel the presence of the italians' notoriously generous hospitality.

I ask him if he ever goes back to Italy and true to form the reply comes "only once a year to see mama!&"

OK, enough re-enacting of Goodfellas and back to the food.

In true Italian style, we opted to share antipasto d’Italiana – a spread of cold meats and treats including Salami, parma ham, carpaccio, smoked salmon with capers, dolcelatte, bruschetta smothered with sun ripened tomatoes, olives and a wonderfully rustic pate.

Every ingredient had obviously been carefully sourced and it tasted like only the finest had made it into this ensemble.

Doubtless this has to be the best way to get the appetite whetted for the main course. My main was a classic combination of veal escalope, parma ham and sage, otherwise known as saltimbocca;. The name literally translates as ‘jump in the mouth’ and is entirely appropriate as your taste buds are sprung into a frenzy of excitement with every mouthful. This particular incarnation was suffused in a green sagey butter and draped with salty fine parma ham cut to a translucent pink. Accompanying the dish were steamed vegetables and crispy tiny roast potatoes -– a perfect horde of accessories.

The dessert was equally impressive – heaving with chocolate.

Giuseppe’s has one of the most welcoming and friendly atmosphere I have ever had the pleasure of stumbling across. It’s the kind of place where both couples can find an intimate corner or a large group of you could go out after work and everyone would be happy. The food is very traditional and only occasionally borders on the experimental – but who needs to experiment when the classics are this good!